Here's a report from dermatologists about hormones and health and skin:
Peptides
Peptides are small proteins that stimulate the production of collagen and thicken the skin. "They can be helpful for someone who wants to minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles," Dr. Berson said.
Growth Factors
Growth factors are compounds that act as chemical messengers between cells and play a role in cell division, new cell and blood vessel growth, and the production and distribution of collagen and elastin. "Growth factors have been used extensively for treating wounds," Dr. Berson said. "Research has shown that they can improve elasticity, so these ingredients can be beneficial for someone who wants to firm loose skin."
Anti-Inflammatories/Botanicals
There are a variety of botanical, or plant-based, ingredients that have anti-inflammatory properties. Among these are licoclalcone A (licorice extract), lycopene, pycnogenol (pine bark extract), silymarin (milk thistle), quercetin, allantoin (comfrey root), chamomile and aloe vera. All reduce inflammation, while some, like lycopene, also have antioxidant properties and may help prevent the development of skin cancer.
"Botanicals are helpful for people with rosacea, sensitive skin or sun damage since they can reduce redness and swelling," said Dr. Berson. "Some, such as lycopene, also offer the benefits of antioxidants without the drawbacks of irritation."
Hydroxy Acids
While the benefits of alpha and beta hydroxy acids have long been known, poly hydroxy acids (PHAs) are the next generation of hydroxy acids. The significant difference between PHAs and the older ingredients is that their acids have larger molecular structures, which allows them to penetrate the skin more slowly, decreasing sensitivity and discomfort without hampering effectiveness. "If you have dull, rough skin, PHAs can make the skin brighter and smoother," Dr. Berson said. "They also help draw moisture into the skin, which can minimize dryness and the look of fine lines and wrinkles."
